PPD-free, explained: how to read a henna label

The word “henna” on the front of a pack tells you almost nothing. What you really want is on the back, in the small print — and learning to read it takes about a minute.

Pure henna is one of the safest ways to colour hair. But plenty of products borrow the name while hiding ingredients that pure henna would never contain. The difference matters for your hair and, in some cases, for your skin. Here's how to tell real from imposter.

Not all “henna” is henna

Genuine henna is the dried, milled leaf of Lawsonia inermis — nothing else. It gives a warm reddish-brown and, as we explain in what lawsone does to your hair, it can't produce black on its own. So when a single packet promises “instant jet black in 30 minutes,” that colour is coming from something other than henna.

The word to watch: PPD

PPD (para-phenylenediamine) is a synthetic dye chemical used to create fast, dark colour. It's common in conventional hair dyes and in so-called “black henna,” where it's added to a henna base to make it stain black quickly. PPD is a well-documented contact allergen: in sensitive people it can cause skin reactions, and those reactions can become more severe with repeated exposure. Real, pure henna contains no PPD at all.

If a “henna” turns hair black fast, assume it isn't pure henna until the label proves otherwise.

Red flags on a label

Put the pack down — or at least ask questions — if you see any of these:

• Para-phenylenediamine, PPD, or PTD — synthetic dye chemicals, not henna.
• “Black henna” or “instant/fast black” — pure henna can't do this alone.
• Metallic salts (e.g. picrate/picramate, lead, copper) — can react unpredictably with other treatments.
• Ammonia, peroxide or “developer” — that's oxidative chemical dye, not herbal colour.
• Vague terms like “fragrance,” “colour,” or “CI” numbers with no explanation.
• No ingredient list at all, or no batch number and expiry date.

Green flags on a label

These are the signs of the real thing:

• A single ingredient: Lawsonia inermis for henna, Indigofera tinctoria for indigo. Nothing else.
• A batch number with manufacture and expiry dates — freshness you can trace, as required under the Cosmetics Rules, 2020.
• No promises of instant black or chemical-style results.
• A fine, consistent powder and, ideally, a stated region of origin.

Always do a patch test

Even with pure, single-ingredient henna, a patch test is good practice — especially the first time you use any new product, and essential for anything you're unsure about:

If you ever notice a reaction to any hair product, stop using it and seek advice from a qualified professional. Pure henna is gentle for most people — but your skin is yours, and a two-minute test is always worth it.

Why this is the whole point

Purity isn't a slogan you can verify by trusting a brand's tone of voice. It's something a label either proves or doesn't. The reason we keep our ingredient lists to a single plant, print a batch and date on every pack, and source from a single origin is precisely so you can check — rather than take our word for it. That's also the thinking behind sourcing at the origin in Sojat.

Once you know what to look for, you'll never read a hair-care label the same way again — and that's a good thing. The fewer surprises in the pack, the better for your hair.